The Trail of the Coeur d’ Alene does not disappoint. It is quiet, scenic, well-paved, and (for now) downhill. I bike for 15 leisurely miles, finally able to listen to my thoughts instead of listening for trucks. I ride over a bike bridge, through pine forest, alongside marsh grasses to the town of Harrison, a former logging town on Lake Coeur d’ Alene.

There is a town campground in Harrison, and the lovely host family welcomes me, reacting with the usual surprise when they hear what I’m up to. They also give me fair warning that it is Regatta weekend, an annual gathering of boats and general excuse to party. They hope the music won’t keep me up. I assure them I’m a solid sleeper, and they point me to the best/nearest/only restaurants in town.

Hungry, I grab some nachos at The Landing, then make my way to The Cycle Haus where I know I can get wifi access. They’re closing soon, but I grab a decaf coffee and settle into the comfy couch to catch up with the digital world for a few minutes. An older man, catching site of my adventure cycling maps, strikes up a conversation, sharing his experiences hiking and biking all over the country. His dining companions join in, as does the barista, and we pass a lively half hour talking about my trip. Mindful of the time, I head out to get some ice cream, as recommended by both Lauren and the camp host family.

I sit with my ice cream and watch the sunset, listening to lapping water and the drunken banter of the bros at the next campsite (congratulations on the new job Alex). There is a band playing funk-rock covers at a bar up the hill. When the sun sets, I can see the Milky Way. Its been a good day.